Thursday, July 28, 2022

Diet, sport & lifestyle

Introduction

Morning,

when the covid pandemic began I decided to get back in shape; as usual I started to make a list of requirements, evaluate various solutions, and establish a modular program. Often it's not the out of shape the real trigger, because the laziness tend to progressively justify the situation, and effectively also in my case the spring has been the incapacity to make some movements, and the short breath during intense and strength activity (i.e. motocross). In 2019 I was 48 and now I'm 51.

I splitted the approach into two macro modules: the diet and the fisical activity (i.e. sport); obviously due to my overweight it's ridicolous to think to a training program that include 2-hours run, or 5 workouts per week.

    It's necessary to start from the diet side, because the correct feeding offers the correct physical energy levels, and the correct intake of vitamins and macronutrients ... and because I wanted to avoid finding myself after 6 months with all the analyzes wrong.

    I thought to the "diet" in terms of correct life balance, a lifestyle reminder to maintain the correct ratio intake/activity (no problem eating a whole pandoro as long as you cycle for 5 hours the next day).

Diet

After several evaluations, about specific diet-ologies, rather then contact a dietician/nutritionist, I realized my two big requirements:

  • I work, and so it happen to eat at the restaurant, and so I cannot pretend to have a rigid scheme with exotic or rare/complicated foods
  • I need to change my diet trough the time (training phases) or by opportunity (I can't resist to certain foods)
Therefore also the best diet ever, with a perfect balance, would turn out to be a failure after a business launch, or a sudden pizza night with friends. I thought that the correct solution was a calorie counting app, because it's like a backpack to be filled: no matter which food you need only to respect the daily calories intake.
    This "variable" (i.e. non fixed) diet must be addressed in successive stages:
  1. basic respect calories counting: at the beginning there is no organization, so it's important to refer to known and simple foods (a no oil tuna, pasta/rice with raw tomato sauce, green salad, boiled potatoes, peach/cantaloupe/strawberry, etc), avoiding "complex" ones (as bread with olives, seasoned meat, etc) ... a precise food logging give deterministic results
  2. after 1 month, tipically you'll understand that your favourite foods are not many, and you'll start to respect the macronutrients (carbo/prot/fat) ratio
  3. vitamins intakes, two aspects: as a long term (life) diet all vitamins and minerals are important (the right app helps you choose the foods you prefer the one that contains the vitamins you need), and (but) it's important that you cannot exceed some vitamins daily limit (i.e. the fat-soluble ones A-D-E-K) for long periods (carry cancer)
Avoiding the night raids on the refrigerator and taking into account the amount of food I ate, for the first 120 days I lost about 100 grams a day (I neve skipped the daily scale measurement); I started adding the "sport" activity after 30 days from the begining.

To be fast and efficient these are my hints for the food logging:
  • at home identify your preferred "bare" key foods: a can of tuna give 25 grams of protein, an egg (55-60) 6-7 grams of proteins and fats, parmiggiano reggiano more fats than protein, etc; with these ones the logging become scientific and recurring (i.e. time efficient), and simple to maintain (conversely complex foods, rich of condiments, etc are not prohibited, but they make the logging by novice really difficult)
  • at restaurant prefer pasta/rice with tomato sauce, fruit, or alternatively chicken/turkey, because they have a deterministic calorie intake when consumed without condiments; by practice you'll able to order red-meat, etc
  • since the big mistake is underestimating the weight, the foods above are low calories, and so they reduce that error; btw if you're paranoic or, as me a very precision person, buy a portable scale: as big as a cell phone you can take it with you
  • the general rule should be a carboidrate-based launch and a protein-based dinner; along the time, after 2-3 months, when workouts increases that rule will not be sufficient
  • water is important (contributes to weight loss, helps the assimilation of hydro-soluble vitamins, etc) , an adult must drink 30-35 milliliters of water per kilo of body mass, so a 70 Kg person must drink 2.45 lt/day; it's recommended to drink a glass before the beginning of each meal)
  • and last, the accessories:
    • some supplements are overly sugary, avoid these, you need minerals, etc, if you need sugar ... you know it's in the jar in the kitchen), in any case log these to control your intake and your mineral levels
    • vitamins: it's almost impossible to take the recommended daily dose, tipically you need pills; the rule is never to exceed 50% of the daily values, because the rest comes from foods ... choose a non commercial one, that contains at least vitamins D -- and -- K because they are present in small quantities into the foods, and because when both present help prevent cancer
After an analysis I choose the MyNetDiary app, because has also some shortcuts to help to:
  • copy previous meals
  • tracks vitamins, minerals and macronutrients
  • create your customized meal, also cloning from a defined one (f.e. if you clone the "milk" you maintain the calcium mineral, usually not declared on the package)
  • add a food by barcode
  • "compose" the meal selecting the food from a list, where on top appear the most used ones
MyNetDiary sync from GoogleFit also in the bare "free" version; this is important to add the workouts in the weight estimation to check if you're on target or not. I start my journey using my bluetooth scale, and despite the fact that the impedance is not reliable, the weight measurement is perfect, and it's uploaded instantly to GoogleFit and so it shall'be used by the app.
    Target can be expressed by date or daily calories budget; I prefer the second one, because I do a workout each day, so I should avoid the under weight.
    Choose the premium one to:
  • enforce your custom macro ratio (I need to follow different ratios trough different workout phases, as strenght, definition, etc)
  • use time in food logging (I need to differentiate the morning and afternoon snacks)
  • vitamins/minerals intake analisys (fundamental for diet stage 2 and 3)
  • sync trough other fitness platform as Garmin Connect.
Generally speaking for diet stage 1 (i.e. calories counting) there is not much differences trough various apps, but for a long term program the efficiency (that lower the probability of giving up) is foundamental, so:
  • food recognition by photo is not very useful, because it could be slow and often lead to incorrect results (and I don't have the patience to wait if I'm in the self-service queue), it's faster to select the food from the most usued or favorite lists
  • fitness data repository (as data aggregation platform): you could be a Garmin fun, so "Garmin Connect" is your complete ecosystem platform, conversely if you wear Polar sensors/watch (as me), and you need the freedom to be open to various solutions and / or additions (automatic scales, etc), you should relay on GoogleFit platform; GFit sync is free in base version that it's the first small step that you should comply (remember the "by step" approach)
  • web user interface is a plus to input datas from your browser; it's not critical if the app interface is fast, but it helps in some situations (low cell phone battery, etc)
Personally I "program" my journey the evening before or during the breakfast; when I'll out of home, I sketch my restaurant launch inserting rice/pasta/chicken, and leave the dinner empty, then during the dinner I complete the journey to reach the correct levels of proteins, etc. So I'm able to fill my diet in a very simple and fast way. 

  Physical activity (i.e. workout/sport)

I started train regularly after 1 month from the beginning, 2 times per week, mainly by tapis roulant cardio sessions; actually I do 3 cardio sessions per day (1 hour and 1 quarter each) as tapis/cycling, 3 strength workout (1-1.5 hours), and the 7th day is the motocross day.
    From 2 trough 7 ? it seems to much ? no, it's the diet effect, and I explain how the "diet" change the perspective:
  • before the diet
    • I did the routine blood tests (cholesterol was a little high, not life threatening, but to be correct)
    • my heartbeat at rest was around 60, and I was able to complete a 15-20 motocross session
  • then:
    • after first year of  "diet" my blood tests were perfect; subsequently, thanks to food logging, I also discovered that the slightly high potassium level was due to carrots, and so I fix it
    • my HB, seated in a chair, is 40-42, 36-38 during night (33-35 in the summer) ... and I'm not bradycardic :-)
    • I'm able to do (2 x 1 hour) motocross sessions where beat stay in band 5 (the higher one) for 50 minutes, or (2 x 45' + 30' minutes)
  • feeding correctly help the daily training, that become an "habitude" because it shall the body to require (and the mirror confirm); training is an energizer and a method to reduce the lean loss (muscle) and strength after 40 years
My first target was the motocross training, but honestly it is very rewarding to be able to make efforts in the sun without particular problems :-)

About the strength trainings I choose to have my own personal gym in my garage, and now I can say that it was a winning choice. It's not necessary a "The Rock" setting, but to begin it's sufficient a couple of dumbbell, or a multi function cable machine.

Fitness trackers

During the entire process the fitness trackers are a key function, to avoid overstimate your workout and the quantity of calories burned (no black magic here, you swallow and you consume).
    Clearly a phased approach is possible, and desirable to avoid being overwhelmed by inputs that we would not yet have the experience of handling; at the beginning a simple fitness band is sufficient to track runs, various light workout and give a good estimation of your heart activity.

Along the path you'll use sport watch with external sensors to have a more precise estimate of your heart rate and work on thresholds (there are specific high-low cardio graphs to increase the fat consumption); an external sensor improve the beat analysis and it's more portable than watches (think to armband Polar OH1+ as a valid and reliable replacement for the chest strap, with the main advantage of a better wereability).

Actually I use my Polar Vantage M as general calories and step counters, and as a base to gather info from external beat sensors (used to improve precision).
    I dropped the chest strap Polar H10 a bit (moisture is always something of difficult during winter) and replaced with the arm band, even if for cycling the chest strap remains a good and actual choice (positioned in the chest it is not affected by movements and enhances the natural precision).
Due to lot of mobility during motocross it's mandatory to use the armd band, conversely during swim, where the beats vary little the "bare" sportwatch is sufficient.
    Keep in mind that the optical sensor technology (vs. chest strap electric misuration) is not an incorrect idea, it's the application (i.e. placement) to make the difference; both in standalone or connected (to sport watch) operation modes, if placed on bicep rather than on forearm (near elbow), it does not vibrate or move during accelerated movements (bacause it's light), and it's really precise (and it does not make any interpolation as some "reduced 

The top sport watches brands are Garmin, Polar, Suunto, and we could conferencing for hours, from my point of view I choosen Polar at the beginning mainly for the chest strap (it's a know standard), and then I appreciated the "not so close platform", rather than the good mobile app that transform your cell phone into a cycling computer at no cost (Polar Beat).
    Naturally I disabled all the "smart features" (phone call notifications, message, etc) and so I'm interested only to have a precise sport watch, because I have always my phone with me, so I don't need an extension (but this is philosophy).

Conclusions

Both for the diet and for the training it's important to understand that:
  • let's consider any calories counting app as an instrument, it's necessary to govern the entire process; any gym subscription (for anyone that does not have a dedicated space) is a priority 2 fact
  • there are not big secrets, the more you eat the more workouts you have to do, so counting your intake and to have a flexible diet are the winning factors ... the limit is that we're not professional athletes or holliwood stars, so we have a limited time
  • diet and training must be approached in steps, the "evil shortcut" as "I pay a gym to be forced", it is a constraint, so it is not a desired choice ... and sooner or later you will abandon; by steps it could be that in some period you decrease the number of workouts, but hardly you'll abandon (in more of two years of continous training I skipped only a few ones ... the fingers of my hands)
  • about the time ... I remember the phrase "sleep faster", but at the beginning I never thought I'd get to all these workouts, so you start slowly but steadily; trough the process I discovered that early morning workouts (6-6.30) are not as tiring as I thought, but conversely energize me for the entire journey
In summary I lost more than 15 kilos, and improved my cardio resistance, then I started to gain lean mass.

I hope I have been useful and helpful, Regards,
    gino

Wednesday, March 25, 2020

fitness instruments calories/bpm/distance precision (comparison Polar H10 vs Huawei Honor Band 5 vs Tapis TX9000HRC)

Morning,
in this period, due to forced isolation for corona virus auto isolation, I'm doing some fitness.
The first thought was to find the correct instruments to measure the results: calories, fat burn, etc.

I analyzed various solutions, assuming these pre-requisites:
  • each possible device (smartband, sportwatch, cardio fitness chest belt, etc)  must be fitness oriented, f.e. a smartwatch with 4G/3G connectivity is unuseful because is often not IP68 (i.e. you cannot swim)
  • notifications for whatsapp/calls/etc could be present, but they shall be unused (disabled) ... two reasons: a) during run/walk/etc activities calls and the whatsapp/SMS/email notifications are interruptions, they're deprecated, b) notifications are always not fully correctly managed: emoji, incorrect visualization ... at the end use your phone or do fitness
  • the GPS sensor is not mandatory/useful in a smartband or a sportwatch (i.e. a fitness targeted smartwatch) and should be avoided, for two main reasons: a) it drain battery faster, b) if I'll walk/run outdoor I'll have surely my cellular phone, that has a better (precision and fast to fix) sensor and definitely more battery
  • the fitness tracker must have a battery capacity able to cover more days, at minimum 3-5, because it should monitor continously trough the day (calories, sleep quality, etc)
  • the tracker should be independent (except for GPS outdoor activities) from cellular, it must have an internal memory to store a fitness session; during indoor activities both fitness (tapis roulant, cycling, free fitness) and ordinary (walking, sleep, etc) ones, I don't want to worry about wearing the cellular
  • swimming, waterproof, etc are often incorrectly used: I need a fully IP68 wearable device, swimming compatible; a lot of time I found: a) IP67, this is not waterproof, it's only dust and spash proof (i.e. washing hands with carefully), b) outdoor swimming in the sea is OUT OF SCOPE from my perimeter (salt water is corrosive, to find the correct device require to pimp up the budget)
I choosen:
  • Huawei Honor Band 5:
    • it's a smartband with at least 3 days of battery capacity, doing a) 24h real time heart monitoring ("smart" monitoring measure at different intervals according to the activities using a smart algorithm to find the correct moment), b) notifications disable, c) sleep monitoring, d) about 1 hour of fitness activity per day
    • proprietary app is the "Huawei health" v. 10.0.2.333 
    • trough various I discarded XiaoMi Band 4 that lack SpO2 measurement, and Huawei Watch GT or GT2 seeing a few extra feature with a low battery duration and an higher price
  • Polar H10 (it's an H9 with internal memory):
    • it's a cardio chest belt that is able to transmit at the same time to bluetooth, ANT+ and Gymlink (5.3 KHz) devices; I'm keeping disabled the ANT+
    • two mobile apps (I use only Android 9.x): "Polar Beat 3.4.4" normally used during fitness activities, with some basic plans/indications to improve resistance/power/etc, and "Polar flow" to better analyze the results
    • Polar beat keep the mobile screen on and it's comfortable for real time tracking; I'm able to cycle trough bpm/calories, fitness and fat burning zones
I also own a TXFitness TX9000HRC tapis roulant for indoor running; personally I don't love very much outdoor running due to rain, rough roads (with potholes) not "amortized", and external temperature (too cold in winter).
Tapis is able to induce the speed in step of ".1" Km/H, i.e. kilometers for hour (not minute for kilometer) as an ordinary car, and inclination from 0 to 12.


First of all keep in mind that firmware is important, because it enable last features and fixes (trough the story various bands miss or fail some measurements, or lack some features), a complete comparison could not ignore this, so:
  • Band 5: firmware 1.1.0.122 (upgrade trough app), "ebay" street price 30 euros (03/2020)
  • Polar H10: 3.0.50, "amazon" street price 61 euros (03/2020)
After some sessions I defined my routine and I completed a full comparison, let's analyze a 55 mins indoor running session, so composed:
  • pre-defined "Tempo" Polar training plan: 5/warmup-fat+5/aerobic+20/anaerobic+5/fat; tapis inclination 2-3
  • 3 mins of fat burn; inclination 0-2
  • 3 mins of extreme (> 10 km/h); inclination 2
  • 14 mins of rest and walking (fat burn) till to 55th minute; inclination 2-0
I started at the same time Band5, H10 and tapis. The results are:
    \Polar H10Band 5TapisNotes
    Distance-5.35 Km6.64 KmBand counts 6.597 steps (I'm 1.70m taller).
    Band/tapis difference was constant, it could be a zero start error.
    Calories581437476Polar calories are higher from beginning.
    Tapis know inclination and I suppose correct distance.
    Fat burn21 mins
    (16% of cals)
    20 mins-BTW no one show how much "grams".
    BpmXX +/- 5-Tapis rarely receive H10 5.3 KHz signal

    First of all I tried to follow the Polar "Tempo" training (to develop speed and stamina) during first 35 minutes:
    Polar pre-defined "Tempo" training

    Now the bpm graphs to compare Band 5 vs H10 precision:

    Huawei Band 5 Polar H10
    Approximately, trough various check during the training time, I see that instant beat differences was in 3-5 units.

    I overlay the two graphs:
    Polar H10 light red vs Band 5 dark red

    As you can see:

    • differences are very minimal; keep in mind that it's an indoor run so velocity vs beat should be very constant
    • a little H10 over measure (see below about this period) in the initial warmup 0-10, and a visible Band 5 over measure after the 3 mins extreme peak (it should be a rest/fat-burn phase where I tried to keep the beat as regular as possible)
    • about 1st period, I experimented two spurious consistent spykes from Huawei Band 5 (below the original graph); I thought to a Polar error, but subsequently I observed two times the similar error, and both the time during the same initial period (4-8 minutes)
    Band 5 dark red - incorrect spurious spyke 4-8 min
    Unfortunately the H10 cost as double than Band5 and it's totally blind without the cellular "screen" support; as each chest belt the wearibility is more annoying than a smart band.
    Just to make another comparison I had a Lidl/Crivit chest belt and it seemed easier to moisten to get in contact with the skin and take the measurement.

    What's a reason to use Polar H10 in place of H10 ? The Polar beat show real time beat graph/values, so if you're oriented to respect specific fitness level zones (fat burn, etc) prefer this ones (the band5 also show the beat and the zones, but you need to switch on the screen, because the app is not in realtime).

    regards,
        gino

    Wednesday, January 15, 2020

    ASUS-MikroTik dual WAN with cellular USB failover

    Morning,
    I live alone from fiber/super connectivity/etc, so I definitively switch over the home data connection from ADSL/etc to mobile 4G one.
    My need is a method to use "mobile quota" from main home connection rather than trough various cellular/mobile family ones.

    I built my home network with two SOHO devices: an ASUS and a MikroTik routers.

    The MikroTik SXT LTE kit (https://mikrotik.com/product/sxt_lte_kit) is a PoE powered (via a power injector) 4G router, it should be mounted trough a roof pole (but in a such a moment I'm able to use inner into home with sufficient s/n level).
    The LTE kit does not FDD band aggregation, so you're limited to 150/50 Mbit up/down link (actually there should be a FDD variant); my 4G provider furtherly limit me to a symmetrical 30/30 line, so definitively correctly sized. To overcome the limitation change MikroTik model or switch to Huawei (B525S-23A if you prefer an indoor model with SMA antennas, and to drill a wall for a maximum displaceable distance of 5 mt/15 ft).
    The 30/30 nominal bandwidth is sufficient to surf and stream net video.

    The ASUS router RT-N66U (https://www.asus.com/Networking/RTN66U/) mainly act as a Wi-Fi access point, it's a forwarding only machine (no source dynamic NAT, a.k.a. masquerading).
    Internal net is an unique subnet formed by both wired and wireless client, the external net stay between two routers (it's like a backbone, but no one client is present at all).

    My architectural design is based on these requirements:
    • [mandatory] dual WAN technology: the secondary WAN via ethernet cable (back to back) to MikroTik router, and primary one for an USB connected modem (tethering Android phone
    • [mandatory] web filtering to disallow bad traffic (malware, adult, gambling, advertisements, etc)
    • [optionally] some specific source NAT rules to allow "free and unfiltered" web traffic for master admins (i.e. parents)
    • [optionally] Quality of Service (i.e. shaping) to limit the TV streaming transfers (I would reduce excessive video resolution quality)
    so, basically each last ASUS model should be suitable. MikroTik is a very powerful and flexible piece of hardware, unfortunately with an obfuscated syntax, btw, thanks to a presence in the business environment, the net is a very large library of ideas (you can find a lot of examples).

    The foundamentals points are:
    1) each wifi DHCP client is served by ASUS router, and receive an OpenDNS server (a.k.a. Cisco Umbrella) to filtering web traffic

    2) normally ASUS router use secondary WAN and forward traffic to MikroTik 4G router

    
    ASUS dual WAN config
    3) the 4G connectivities are not flat and so we must take advantage of 4G quotas trough various family phones; dual WAN: each USB connected Android phone to ASUS create a tethering point, and the configured failback activate the new line, when phone shall be disconnected, the ASUS fail to secondary (ethernet) WAN

    4) install OpenDNS updater client into each phone, both to update the actually assigned dynamic IP, and to protect (URL filter) the mobile phone when outside home

    5) to warranty master admins (parents) unfiltered traffic, you must allow queries to non OpenDNS server; this ASUS script NAT the DNS queries
    #! /bin/sh
    iptables -t nat -I PREROUTING 1 -p udp --dport 53 -s x.x.x.x -d y.y.y.y -j DNAT --to 8.8.8.8
    iptables -t nat -I PREROUTING 1 -p tcp --dport 53 -s x.x.x.x -d y.y.y.y. -j DNAT --to 8.8.8.8
    exit 0
    #
    where x.x.x.x is the source IP address of parent terminal (phone, PC, etc), and the y.y.y.y is the ASUS LAN address; ASUS act as a forwarder DNS server toward to OpenDNS.
    Actually I'm unable to automatically schedule the script (I manually run it over the time, mainly una tantum after router reboot).
    Then you need to allow all DNS traffic with MikroTik firewall rules; the traffic shall be present when the "secondary WAN" shall be active:
     
    these allow my phone to 8.8.8.8 and others to OpenDNS, deny any other DNS query.

    ASUS detect the active line by the configured probe method: use only ping (as in figure), but -- both -- allow DNS UDP queries and ping to specific 8.8.4.4 host from WAN ASUS address.

    regards,
        gino

    Friday, January 7, 2011

    ebay wireless gsm alarm burglar system

    GSM Alarm burglar system with wireless sensors
    I buy that item from ebay. There are a lot of a such alarm system, that when an alarm is triggered (from PIR, contact or fire/smoke sensors) an SMS is sent (the figure is mirrored).

    I encountered a lot of difficulties during the initial setup phase so I decided to write a "manual"; the system auto learn the sensors, but the procedure and the cabling scheme are totally absent, so it's very very difficult to use.
    More in deep, surfing the net (a lot), I discovered that this is a 2nd generation one, so all the manuals about the 1st generation (without auto learning) are totaly unuseful, and finally the wireless siren need a bizzarre autolearning procedure (while the cabling is simply ... not present in the manual).

    I think that the solution is good and very cost attractive but the lack of manual is a big big contro; there are so many flavours that the surfing is not so helpful but all the products (IC, etc) seems developed from one or two big chinese companies:
    http://www.ecvv.com/company/chinapst/catalog/124815.html
    http://www.autosecu.com/english/Product.asp?ID=212&show=3
    Silicon Valley is the past as Shenzhen is the future ...

    BTW ...

    Central Unit:
    • it's a 2nd generation system, with autolearning of sensors
    • the sensors (PIR, contact open/door, smoke/fire, gas) trigger the abnormal situation, when alarm is received from the central unit, it send SMS up to five (or similar) pre-setup phone numbers
    • it support 2 partitions (but I cannot able to use the inner one, so I "declared" all sensor in the external one), 16 (some more) wireless zone and 3 wired zones
    • 1 relay output (2 contacts) to drive a home appliance (100W max), and 2 open collectors (SMS driven)
    • two ways/accesses for the setup: SMS or wireless keyboard (that "fillup" a zone)
    • remote controllers have 4 button: out arm, home arm (only "external" sensors), disarm and direct alarm (the "siren" button)
    • sensors can be all-deleted (no partially) or added:
      • hold the reset and power on to total delete (sensors, zone names, phone numbers)
      • power on AND hold on reset for 1 second to go into "inner auto learning " or "home arm" (It does not work for me) ... wait 20 secs to automatically exit
      • simply power on, without intervention to go into "outer auto learning" or "out arm" (20 secs)
    • ordered add:
      • I want setup the environment offline, declaring PIRs first and door/open then, because each zone has a customizable SMS text, but only the first five (5) have dedicated message; from 6th to 16th zones there is an unique message text that shall be sent when an alarm triggered, btw the last part of each message report the zone (f.e. "wireless activated (07)" is the default)
      • go into "outer auto learning"
      • power the fire (circular) sensor (via test button), after a central unit blinking power off the sensor
      • power on the PIR, and power off after central unit blinking
      • power on the open/close contacts and put away the two parts (basically to learn a sensor, it must send an alarm), and power off
      • press the alarm (siren) key in each remote controller (each one fillup a zone)
      • press the panic sensor/button
      • the sequence allow to assign dedicated/explicit message to most important sensors (fire, etc), and reserve the general/unique message for secondary ones (6-16 zones)
    • sensor jumper switches:
      • all sensor have two main group of jumpers A0-A7, D0-D3; incongruent settings inhibit correct behavior
      • 1st generation systems required that "A"jumper reflect the "host number" (a label on back side of the central unit, each digit had 0, 1 or 2 value); with 2nd gen it's unuseful (auto learn), so I assigned an unique code to each sensor
      • in my working configuration each sensor (PIR or contact) MUST have the SAME "D" bits value (i.e. D0-D3=LHNN=0, 1, NC, NC is a possible one)
      • timer (default) = 5 secs
      • select rx (default) = 4.7M (3-4)
      • len on/off (default) = on
    Sensors:
    • PIR: on/off switch, customization: led on/off, delayed start
    • open/close contact: wireless transmitter, working method/setup similar to PIR; 3,5 cm to trigger the alarm
    • smoke/fire: little siren, no jumper, auto-learned by the system in the usual way
    wireless Siren (big trouble):
    • various models (strobe, light, wired, etc) exist, I have the wireless light one (I have no cables from siren); the manual is scrap and the two main problems are cabling and auto-learn
    • a such sirens can act as a standalone system (that auto learns sensors, without a central unit too) or as a normal siren controlled by a central unit
    • auto-learn
      • as a controlled siren (i.e. not a standalone system) could be necessary to register the central unit into the siren
      • power on the central unit with the transmitted connected and powered, wait the completition of the startup process; put (if not) in disarmed state
      • power on the siren, wait 1 minute the end of startup
      • hold on the small black button on the left side of the siren (delete all), after beep/flash press the button; to be sure cycle power (follow the previous step)
      • press and leave the black button, the green led start blinking, the 3 red ones flash, and and a strong beep will be auditable
      • use a remote controller or a panic button to raise an alarm, i.e. the system is disarmed, but with panic or "siren" button in the remote the system is armed and raise the alarm; wait the siren beep/flash (the wait could be till 1 minute) and the re-press the black button in the siren ....
      • OK system is registered into the siren
    • cabling
      • the basic schema is the one in the figure, the transmitter would use a different frequency from central unit - sensors (i.e. 315 MHz siren vs. 433 MHz sensor or viceversa)
      • transmitter uses a bypass to power itself: normally the manuals does not specify where connection take in place, if to the central unit or siren; the correct is connect the bypass to the central unit, place the transmitter as far as possible (30 cm cable is provided ...)
      • connect the single cable of transmitter to the "siren" contact of the central unit; the same that is used for the indoor siren
      • the siren has two holes and a button: connect the power adapter (the bigger one), don't use the jack (similar to a stereo-hifi one)
      • in my case the wireless receiver is already integrated into the siren (remember "wireless light siren" nickname); the one above is the most complete scheme suitable for wired-wireless siren
    Surely to be useful, Good luck.

    Sunday, December 7, 2008

    Thursday, December 4, 2008

    Sunday, October 12, 2008